A Thrilling Ride in Madeira

Madeira is a choice port of call for the large numbers of luxury cruise liners that criss-cross the Atlantic Ocean. It is also a popular haven for young newly weds. However, for most people, it is a section of the holiday brochures that often goes overlooked.

Unfortunately, Madeira is often considered to be an insignificant island with not much to beckon the pleasure visitor.

Nothing could be more untrue.

The wicker basket sleighs of the mountainous village of Monte are just one example of the unrivalled attractions that the Madeiran Archipelago has to offer.

Traditionally, transport in Funchal, Madeira's capital, did not include wheeled carriages. The unsophisticated cobblestone roads, steep hills and sharp bends, meant that horse drawn carriages and, later, automobiles were regarded as unsuitable. Rather, the locals elected for various other, more primitive, means of transport.

Basic carriages of wood, mounted on wooden runners, lubricated with grease and pulled at a placid pace by oxen were a favourite. These "carros de bois" were, legend has it, said to have been introduced to Madeira by a British Army Officer who required a means of transport for his invalid wife.

Whilst travelling by the carros de bois was acceptable on the flat, it proved to be an extremely slow way to climb the steep hills that dominate the landscape as soon as you desert the narrow coastal plain.

Another, peculiarly Madeiran, means of conveyance was the travelling hammock. Here, a length of cloth resembling a hammock was slung between two long wooden poles. Two men, one at the front and one to the rear, would lift the assemblage in a fashion rather akin to that of a sedan chair. The passenger reclining in the hammock, usually a woman, was thus transported in what must have been a rather awkward fashion.

The travelling hammock was generally popular with British society women who were resident on the island in the 1700s. Often, to the happiness of their fare, the hammock bearers would sing in their native Portuguese language as they made their progress. A gratuity for this extra service was customarily given. What the passenger did not realise was that sometimes the songs were acutely disparaging of their customer. It is reported that on one occurrence the bearers of a rather obese passenger were singing to the effect: "The fare we are allowed to charge is fixed, but just look at the greatness of this load!"

Monte, being situated high up on the mountainside above Funchal, was no exception when it came to the predominant forms of transport. Clumsy oxen drawn carts and hammocks were the accepted way to convey both people and goods.

Advancement, in every sense of the word, was long-drawn-out. The four kilometre route down from Monte into Funchal could take anything up to three hours.

However, the road from Monte into the heart of the capital was one long, headlong, downward slope. Accordingly, it was little surprise that one day, some 160 years ago, one of the locals decided to explore a more radical means of conveyance. By mounting a fragile wicker basket on two ski-like wooden runners it was observed that you could glide headlong down the hill and reach the city centre in a mere 10 minutes.

The strategy was simple. All that was needed was one substantial push to get going and someone to stand on the rear to steer. In no distance at all, you would soon reach speeds of up to 30 miles per hour.

Suddenly, there was a rapid, and cheap, means of transit from the outlying mountain village into the commercial centre of the island - the snow less, Monte wicker basket sleigh was hence unveiled.

As a profitable aside, the local inhabitants soon discovered that well-heeled Europeans and Americans would take the journey just for enjoyment - hence, the original Madeira tourist attraction was produced. Indeed, Ernest Hemingway famously described his Monte toboggan wicker basket sled ride as the "most exhilarating experience" of his life.

Today, the traditional sound of wooden ski runners gliding over cobblestones persists, but they are for the holiday-makers only. Two carreiros guides, dressed in traditional white with straw hats, will propel you down a shortened route from Monte.

There are no seat belts and the only stopping device you can rely on is the rubber sole of your driver's shoe. The views can be marvelous, if short-lived and the usual souvenir photo awaits you at your journey's end.

The excursion is priced rather expensively by Madeiran values. But, if you want to treat yourself to an experience that you are unlikely to find anywhere else, then give the Monte toboggans a go.

Informazioni dell' Autore

Robert James B.Sc (Hons) is the editor of the popular Madeira Tourist Guide at http://www.love-madeira.com. For further information, read the Monte Toboggans Guide

by: JimmyJayJames Total views: 14 Word Count: 774 Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2010

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